- Margaret
- About the Characters
- The Island
- The Book
- Fragments From The Book
- The History After The Book
Margaret
"The gray outlines of the little fishing-boat slowly faded in the mist lying over the sea, till at last they disappeared altogether. She was the boat which had brought us here, and half an hour before we had been still aboard with her skipper and crew. Now we were on our own, "stranded" on Floreana, this lonely island. Behind us lay the sea and the shifting mist, above us the sky, infinite as the sea and a dismal grey. Ahead lay the future we had ourselves chosen, our new life."
With these words begins the story in which Margaret Wittmer tells the world about the first, permanent colony on the Island of Floreana in the Galapagos Archipelago. This quote is from her book, "Postlagernd Floreana: A Robinson family in the Galapagos Island" - Editorial Juventud - Barcelona 1960 - translated to Spanish from the original, German edition published in 1959. The book enjoyed a broad success, was translated into several languages and covers the events surrounding the arrival of the Wittmers to Floreana in 1932.
Given the economic and political reality in the Germany of 1930, Heinz and Margret Wittmer took the decision to change their lives in a radical way.
They arrived at Floreana accompanied by 14-year old Harry Wittmer, Heinz` son from his first marriage. Heinz was in frail health apparently due to rheumatic heart disease. Margret was in the fourth month of her first pregnancy. They had to bring with them, everything they could imagine which would be essential to life there which included to run an adventure of which barely they knew the beginning, but in any way the end. Besides two shepherd dogs, they brought along tents, clothes, cleaning articles, tools, seeds, kitchen´s devices and all that seemed useful to them.
About the Characters
Margret Walbroel Leuchtnbe
a. MARGRET WALBROEL LEUCHTENBE
Daughter of Johannes Walbroel, profession goldsmith; and of Eva Leuchtenberg. Born in Cologne July 12 th 1904. Her mother died when she was 10 years old. She had a sister: Johanna, born in 1900, who lived with her in Floreana since 1962 until her death in 1981. She returned to Germany twice to visit her family; the first time in 1935 so that her son could get to know his grandmother and the second time in 1960 for the presentation of her book "Postlagernd Floreana". On this occasion she visited various European countries. Until her death in the year 2000, Margret received many letters from friends worldwide, many of whom she never knew, as a result of the great distribution of her work.
Heinz Wittmer Brockman
b. HEINZ WITTMER BROCKMANN
Son of Gustav Wittmer and Fernandine Brockmann. Born in Westfalen May 12 th 1891. He had 4 siblings: Mary, Anne, Johannes and Josef. At the moment of the decision to leave Germany, Heinz Wittmer was working as personal secretary of Konrad Adenauer, who at this time, before the nationalism, was Mayor of Cologne. He never returned to Germany. During the second world war, he presented himself in San Cristobal, capital of the Archipelago, to be recruited in case that the German Government demanded it; he felt that it would be his mother country duty, although he was not sympathizer of Adolf Hitler. Besides he served as soldier in the First World War. He died in 1963 in Floreana.
Rolf Wittmer Walbroel
c. ROLF WITTMER WALBROEL
Born on January 1st 1933, four months after the Wittmer’s arrival at Floreana when they had barely finished their house on the island. Rolf was born in a stone cave, which together with a tent, was the first dwelling of the Wittmer. He is the first man whose birth on the Floreana Island is historically documented, and therefore among the first native settlers on the islands. Rolf is the Founder of The Galapagos Tip Top Fleet, Rolf Wittmer Turismo, and the Rolf Wittmer Foundation, he lives and works in the Galapagos Islands.
Floreana IngeBorg Wittmer Walbroel
d. FLOREANA INGEBORG WITTMER WALBROEL
Born in April 18 th 1937 in the house of the Wittmer without complications. Named after the Island, Floreanita still lives and works in Floreana. Successor of Margret in a tradition of hospitality and visitor friendliness Inge manages the “Wittmer Hotel” in the Island with her daughter Erika.
The Island
History
The archipelago became a refuge for pirates and whalers who used the islands as a refuge and brought the first domestic animals.
The archipelago was incorporated to Ecuador during the presidency of Juan José Flores, right after independence. With the goal of turning the archipelago into a new province of Ecuador, José Villain suggested to the president of the Republic, Juan José Flores, that the islands be incorporated into Ecuador and proposed their colonization through the Florin Colonizing Company. From February 12, 1832, Galápagos officially belongs to Ecuador.
Colonies and their new liberated prisoners became ungodly, lawless places. Production and trade in animal products maintained the colonists for a while, until murder and assassination truncated all civilized efforts to survive. After the first colonization attempt failed, Galápagos became a camp for natural resources hunting: turtle oil used for public lighting; two skinned sea lion skins to export to cold countries and lots of wild cattle. Shipping of these products allowed new colonists to have trade relationships with the continent. Nevertheless, the colonies became more and more decadent over time due to the increase in criminals deported from continental jails. This, added to greed and cruelty from the local leaders, made death the only lasting figure in the islands.
The pirates’ example was continued by everybody until it finished off the tortoises. The unrestrained hunting of Galapagos tortoises to get oil and meat was started by pirates and followed by whalers and colonizers who drove these tortoises into extinction in Floreana Island.
Photographs, remains and stories, together with these irons worn out from the rigors of time are evidence of the tenacity and efforts of Norwegian colonists. Their dreams were also cut off, however, by a greater force: the indomitable nature of Galápagos.
Tempting headlines appeared in newspapers in Oslo, Norway at the beginning of the Twentieth Century, inviting people to live in a marvelous place with an abundance of fish and whales, but such promises of paradise turned only into tragedy and death. The attractive selling of “fertile” land on tropical islands inspired the dreams of numerous foreign immigrants who came to the Galápagos in search of peace, work and progress. Unfortunately, most of them found in this “paradise” nothing more than disappointment, tragedy and death.
More than 2,000 Norwegians filled with illusions left their country and invested all their available capital in financing their trip to the “paradisiacal” islands. They arrived with prefabricated houses, fishing equipment, machinery for canning fish, boats and domestic animals, but all attempts at getting established on the islands lasted very little because they did not find the paradise they had dreamed about. On the contrary, they faced harsh environmental conditions. The canning business failed. Many died before one year and some killed each other in despair, with few of them returning to Norway very disappointed. • Headquarters, activities center for the Norwegian colony. 1926
German immigrants tired of civilization and captivated by travelers’ fantastic descriptions moved to that solitary island and took part in a shocking story, which made Galápagos famous to the world. Guided by Dr. Ritter’s articles about idyllic life on the islands, 3 years letter Heinz Wittmer, Margaret and their son Harry arrived as well, with the hope that this environment would improve their boy’s health. A few months later a strange woman with her three lovers claimed ownership of the same island. They were Baroness Wagner de Bosquet, Lorenz, Philippson and the Ecuadorian Valdivieso, who came with plans to set up a hotel for millionaires. The Baroness, for unknown reasons, stirred jealousy, discord and intrigues and eventually assassinations. Coexistence on the island became hell. In March, 1934, the Baroness and Philippson mysteriously disappeared. Their fate is unknown until this day. In July, Lorenz, the prime suspect in such disappearance was found dead on Marchena Island, as he was trying to return to Germany and mysterious ways took him to this desert little island. Death was apparently caused by a shipwreck In November, Dr. Ritter died from poisoning. Dore Strauch returned to Germany and died during a bombing in 1942 in a mental hospital.
Seventeenth Century: Use and Abuse of the Islands
During the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries, after attacking Spanish galleons, the pirates would hide on the islands.
In the Eighteenth Century, whalers, attracted by the wealth from the sea surrounding the archipelago made it their headquarters for hunting, and the islands became their safe port. Thus, they started hunting giant tortoises, whales and two coated sea lions. They also brought foreign animals into the island environment.1832: Ecuador Took Possession of Galapagos
1837: Origin and Death of Human Colonies
Premature End of Tortoises on Floreana
Evidences of a Norwegian colonists Dream
1925: Come and live in a tropical paradise in the Pacific!
The Norwegians: 1925-1928
• Map of Floreana with the 22 lots owned by Norwegian colonists. 1925.
• In 1911, Captain Paul Broun, commander of the Neptune, 1911.1929: The Mysteries of Floreana
In 1929, a German couple, Dr. Friedrich Ritter, a physician and philosopher, and his companion, Dore Strauch, landed on Floreana, fleeing from civilization and anxious to remake their lives in harmony with nature.
Geology
Floreana is the sixth largest of the Galapagos Islands and lies at the extreme southern margin of the Galapagos Platform. In sharp contrast to the other major islands, Floreana lacks a well-developed volcanic center, but instead is dominated by pyroclastic vents and derivative ash and cinder deposits. The majority of exposed lavas are xenolith-bearing alkali-olivine basalts that constitute a coherent suite referred to as the Main Series. The Mank Series comprises a group of isolated vents on the southem flank of the island which erupted xenolith-poor basaltic lavas that are generally poorer in incompatible trace elements and richer in plagioclase.
Geography and Sites of Interest
Floreana is officially known as Santa Maria, this is the sixth-largest of the islands at 173 sq. km. There are many visitor sites on the Floreana Island.
Post Office Bay
Post Office Bay used to have a barrel where whalers left mail. Any captain of a boat that was heading to where the mail was addressed would deliver it. The site continues to be used, but obviously, the barrel has been changed many times. About 300m behind the barrel is a lava cave that can be descended with the aid of a short piece of rope.
Punta Cormorant
Punta Cormorant, here there is a greenish beach (green because it contains crystals of the mineral olivine) where sea lions play and the swimming and snorkeling are good.
A 400m trail leads across an isthmus to a white sand beach where turtles sometimes lay their eggs. The beach is also good for swimming, but beware of stingrays - shuffle your feet when entering the water.
Between the two beaches is a Flamingo lagoon, several dozen flamingos are normally seen. This is also a good place to see other wading birds, such as the black-necked stilt, oystercatchers, willets and whimbrels. White-cheeked pintail ducks are often seen in the lagoon, and Galapagos hawks wheel overhead.
Devil's Crown
Another Floreana visitor site is Devil's Crown, this ragged semicircle of rocks is one of the most outstanding marine sites in the Galapagos. This is one dive where you might want to fight your way through the passing currents to nestle on the rubbed bottom at 65' and just hang out and wait to see what swims along. Groups of hammerheads and spotted eagle rays cruise back and forth across the currents and do come quite close to divers who are stationary for a while. Also here you can view red billed tropicbirds, pelicans, herons and lava gulls nesting on the rocks.
The Book
GENERAL INFORMATION
Although the adventure detailed in this autobiography is extraordinary, the account itself is rendered less so by the author's emphasis on personalities over events, with a humorless determination to expose the flaws in others, and by her lack of introspection about her role as a pioneer/explorer. In 1932, when Wittmer (then pregnant), her husband, Heinz, and his son, Harry--Germans in search of an Edenesque environment--arrived on Floreana, a remote island in the Galapagos, they first dwelled in caves once inhabited by pirates, the "roads" were tracks made by wild donkeys and their only neighbors were a misanthropic back-to-nature theorist and his disciple. The Wittmers learned self-sufficiency by doing--and sometimes by doing again, as when wild bulls tore up crops or they discovered they were thatching their roof the wrong way and it was not watertight. Soon an eccentric baroness mysteriously appears, proclaims herself the island's "empress" and just as mysteriously disappears, leaving a shooting in her wake. *
* FROM PUBLISHERS WEEKLY
In 1932, Margaret Wittmer leaves Germany with her husband and step-son and travels to Floreana, a small, almost unpopulated island in the Galapagos chain, where they settle, clear land, and, after five months of living in old pirates' caves, move into the house they finish just in time for Margaret to have a baby. Over time, the Wittmers acquire a number of remarkable neighbors, including convicts, military personnel and a mysterious baroness who aspires to build a hotel for millionaires. They receive visits from people as diverse as Franklin D. Roosevelt and Thor Heyerdahl, who comes to investigate a reported "head" much like the ones on Easter Island, only to find it was carved by Margaret's husband. There are wild bulls and bears, a dog named Lump that serves as a babysitter, a distant war, a daughter who would rather have a machete or a hoe than a doll, years of settled life, and finally grandchildren. At times the entire situation borders on the unbelievable, but Margaret Wittmer provides equal measures of intrigue, fantasy and common sense as she writes in her down-to-earth and often very humorous fashion about her years on Floreana*
* From: 500 GREAT BOOKS BY WOMEN; REVIEW BY ERICA BAUERMEISTER.
LANGUAGES
In a saga of heroes more fascinatingly dramatic than any adventure fiction, Mrs. Margret Wittmer was the central character. This story can be read in her book "Postlagernd Floreana", published in Germany in 1960. Later translated into 15 languages, it is titled "Floreana" in English.
At this time, editions in German, English and Spanish are available in the market.
EDITORIAL REVIEWS
Reviewer: dollman1 (see more about me) from Olive Branch, MS United States
This is a great book. It was absoulutely unbelievable how the Wittmer's started with practically nothing to succeed even their expectations and live on Floreana for as long as they did. You'll be glued to every page.
Reviewer: Glen Engel-Cox (see more about me) from Washington, DC USA
Jill and I went to the Galapagos Islands in 1996, something we had wanted to do for several years. In preparation, we collected information on the islands by previous travelers, and this is the first of many books we read about these isolated islands in the Pacific, roughly 600 miles west of Ecuador on the South American mainland.
Wittmer, her husband Heinz, and her stepson Harry originally landed on Floreana in 1932. The only other people on Floreana were two fellow German nationals: Dr. Ritter, a self-avowed vegetarian and nudist who was determined to prove his theory that a human could live double their normal span if they followed his ideas on purity of mind and spirit, and his most devoted disciple, Dora. They initially lived in a natural cave previously used by pirates in the 1800s, then built a successive series of homes. Wittmer gives birth to the first human native of Floreana, they battle wild cattle for possession of their garden, encounter the "Empress of Floreana," ad survive at least three different Ecuadorian governors, one of which tries to have them evicted. Their visitors include American millionaires on round-the-world cruises, the crew of cargo vessels that kindly stop to deliver and pick up mail in a sort of marine pony express, several scientists and naturalists including the famed explorer Thor Heyerdahl, and presidents of both Ecuador and the United States.
Wittmer's account is not so much about the islands than it is about herself and her family's struggle to survive on the island. That doesn't mean you don't come away from Floreana with an understanding of the islands--you do, but the point-of-view is that of the settler, rather than what one has come to expect of from the Galapagos (say, Darwin’s scientific accounts from Voyage of the Beagle).
I've often said that travel accounts (even of the sedentary nature as this one) resemble science fiction. Both treat a human encounter with the unknown in a factual nature, one being fiction and the other factual. In Floreana, isolated from normal human civilization, Wittmer and her family experience a true alien encounter with our world and its native creatures.
Reviewer: April Burk (see more about me) from Archer, FL United States
I'm so glad Margret Wittmer wrote of her experiences on Floreana. I really enjoyed reading about her and her husband building a family and a farm on this Galapagos Island. It was so unique and interesting that I believe her story will stay with me for a long time.
THE NEW EDITION
Rolf Wittmer Foundation is in the process of launching a new English Edition of the Book. This new edition will include some unpublished work regarding the Floreana adventure written by Margret Wittmer. It will also include updates on the Wittmer Family, The Rolf Wittmer Foundation, The Galapagos Tip Top Fleet and Hotel Wittmer. This comprehensive new edition will also create fundraising opportunities to the Wittmer Foundation. All the revenue will be invested in the sustainable development of the community in Floreana. e. GET TO READ IT SUBMENU A LA DERECHA: Buy and Download the e-book SUBMENU A LA DERECHA: Buy a hard copy SUBMENU A LA DERECHA: Audiobook 5. FRAGMENTS FROM THE BOOK: To view fragments of the book, click en the menu at the right. Context clarifications and the actual fragments of the Book Floreana will allow you to explore the amazing content of this autobiography.
Fragments From The Book
To view fragments of the book, click en the menu at the right. Context clarifications and the actual fragments of the Book Floreana will allow you to explore the amazing content of this autobiography.
The Arrival, Living in Caves
When the Wittmer Walbroel arrived in Floreana, they arranged themselves in the high part of the island. 160 yards above the sea level, near to a slope there were caves carved in stone…
This caves served as a refuge to the Pirates, who often visited the islands for protection and to supply themselves.
The caves and a tent served as a refuge for the family for about the first 4 months since their arrival to the island.
What About Food?
By arrival on the island, the first source of subsistence of the family Wittmer were the provisions that they, themselves had brought along, as well as hunting and the abundant wild fruits on the island. Afterwards Heinz and Harry dedicated themselves to agriculture as well.
Building a House
Heinz, Harry and Margret built a house made of stone and wood of the "Lechoso" tree (a light Balsa type wood that grows in the zone). The house was covered with banana leaves.
After several improvements, and great effort along the years, they Wittmer lived there until 1950.
The First Birth in Floreana
Rolf Wittmer is the first native settler whose birth is historically documented in the Floreana Island.
During the night of January 1st 1933 Margret due to circumstances related to the farm had to remain alone in full process of labour.
Harry and Heinz had to leave the house in the middle of the night. Margret, novice in labour was afraid and chased after them.
The Wittmer Vows: Island Hospitality
With the stories of their life in the international scene, the Wittmer family became very famous and their house was an obligatory destiny for any visitor that was hanging about the islands.
Even nowadays, years after the death of Margret, her daughter Floreana and her granddaughter Erika keep a small hotel in Floreana, the Wittmer Guest House, where they still receive guests and adventurers from the entire world.
Floreanita
In 1936 and 1937 Margret was pregnant of her second daughter, Ingeborg Floreana, who was born April 18th 1937.
Worried about the experience of her first labour and with nostalgia about her country she passed a pregnancy without too much difficulties.
"Floreanita"
The progressive spirit of the Wittmer Family and their intentions to form a lasting colony in Floreana were indispensable in the construction of their new life. Routine matters in the civilized life, were true headaches and they required great efforts from all.
Water in a Volcanic Island
The weather conditions were not favorable at times, although they had always a roof and food of some type, to fight with the inclemency of the weather in a volcanic archipelago in the Pacific ocean, with the most nearby city about 600 miles away, was not easy.
War in the Pacific
One of the major concerns of the Wittmer in their exit of Germany, in their isolation on the archipelago and during the period between 1935 and 1946, was the Second World War.
Although they did not see themselves that affected like their compatriots and in general like Europe, this conflict brought havocs to Floreana.
Raising Children
Another important challenge for Heinz and Margret was the education of their children. To establish themselves successfully on the island, this was one more task they had to fulfill in their free moments and in the way they were able to do it. In spite of any forecast, they achieved it successfully.
Black Beach
Until 1950, the Wittmer lived in their house located in "El asilo de la Paz / The asylum of the Peace", cultivating the land and living from it, with what produced the farm "Esperanza / Hope".
From that year, they moved to Black Beach, the beach, where they arrived years ago to settle down. Paragraph of the book.
Off to The Ocean
With the proximity to the beach, the access to the resources of the sea was easier and therefore Rolf and Harry were concerned about exploiting it in the best way.
The beginning of this activity was not easy; they had to learn everything with sweat and tears.
The History After The Book
Rolf Wittmer
Margret's son Rolf was one of the first promoters and initiators of Eco-tourism, now well developed in the Galapagos Islands. From 1962 to 1967 he brought scientists and the first tourists to the islands using the "Cologne", his fishing boat.
Being an islander, Captain Rolf Wittmer was educated by his parents. He managed to self-educate himself up to the level of a Second Deck Officer in the Merchant Navy. He obtained his elementary school diploma in 2008, at 75 years old.
In November 1969 he began to formally offer touring activities with a yacht he specially designed and built to accommodate 6 persons: the Motor Yacht "TIP TOP I". This new facility initiated a constantly increasing demand for the excellent services and personal attention that Rolf Wittmer was known to provide. Today, the Tip Top Fleet offers First Class Yachts, "TIP TOP II", "TIP TOP III" and "TIP TOP IV" constructed in 1998, 2001 and 2006 to offer the highest level of security and comfort to passengers.
Captain Rolf Wittmer married Paquita García. Together they raised five children: Margarita, Enrique, Elizabeth, Inge and Charles. All of them were educated in Ecuador Mainland. Rolf Wittmer Turismo and The Tip Top Fleet is a 100% family business founded in 1982 by Captain Rolf Wittmer and run by his offspring to this day.
Margarita "Marga" Wittmer
Margarita Rosa Wittmer García, born in Floreana, April 16 th 1958 , who married to Eduardo Mahauad Witt. Their children are:
1. Jorge Antonio Mahauad Wittmer, born January 26 th 1982
2. Farah Jalile Mahauad Wittmer, born October 28 th 1984
3. Eduardo Alejo Mahauad Wittmer, born February 3 rd 1987
4. Javier Alberto, Mahauad Wittmer, born January 14 th 1992
5. Santiago Tufick Mahauad Wittmer, born March 1 st 1993
Today, Marga is the Executive President of Rolf Wittmer Turismo. She lives in Quito– Ecuador with her family.
Enrique "Schubby" Wittmer
Enrique Wittmer García, born in Floreana, September 8 th 1960 , who married to Martha Patricia Bustamante Montero. Their children are:
1. Cristina Margarita Wittmer Bustamante, born September 27 th 1988
2. Nicolás Martín Wittmer Bustamante, born December 28 th 1991
Today, Schubby is the General Manager or Rolf Wittmer Turismo, Tip Top Travel, and The Tip Top Fleet. He lives in Quito – Ecuador with his family.
Elizabeth "Lieselotte" Wittmer
Elizabeth Wittmer García, born in Floreana, May 18 th 1964. Her children are:
1. Fabián Andrés Salazar Wittmer, born January 26 th 1988
2. Enrique Alejando Rincón Wittmer, born July 18 th 2000
Lieselote worked in Rolf Wittmer Turismo for many years. She is now retired from the family business and she lives in Quito – Ecuador.
Ingeberg "Inge" Wittmer
Ingeborg Wittmer García, born in Floreana, September 12 th 1965, married to Santiago Cubas Pérez. Their children are:
1. Rolf Santiago Cubas Wittmer, born April 13 th 1989
2. Anelí Cubas Wittmer, born December 9 th 1993
The Cubas Wittmer family lives in Spain. Inge visits her brothers and sisters periodically.
Charles Wittmer
Charles Wittmer García, born in Floreana, September 21 st 1966, who married to Ximena Naranjo Demera. Their children are:
1. Charles Wittmer Jr. Naranjo, born August 20 th 1991
2. Felipe David Wittmer Naranjo, born September 25 th 1993
Charles lives in Puerto Ayora, Galapagos. He is the Operations Manager of Rolf Wittmer Turismo and The Tip Top Fleet.
Inge Wittmer
Margret’s daughter Inge, known as Floreanita to the locals helped her mother for many years. She still lives and works in Floreana. “Hotel Wittmer” is a small hotel run by Inge and her daughter Erika in the island.
Inge Floreanita married Mario Castro, a young radio officer that visited Floreana. In a most fascinating love story, Mario and Paquita Castro married Inge and Rolf. From the union of Mario and Floreanita three daughters were borne: Ingrid, Trudy and Erika García Wittmer.
Ingrid García
Ingrid García Wittmer, born in Floreana, July 15 th 1960 . Her daughter is:
1. Madeleine Haro García, born January 9 th 1993
Ingrid lives in Guayaquil – Ecuador with her daughter Made.
Gertrudis "Trudy" García
Gertrudis García Wittmer, born in Floreana, February 24 th 1962 . Married to Iván Escarabay Freire. Their children are:
1. Harry Iván Escarabay García, born June 9 th 1989
2. Hans Edgar Escarabay García, born December 12 th 1992
3. Mario Andrés Escarabay García, born in September 17 th 2001
Trudy and her family live in San Cristobal, Galápagos.
